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ITEMS FOR LADIES. I

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ITEMS FOR LADIES. I July is a favourite month for Rcyal weddings. It seems to be decided that Princess Maud is to be married early in July. Other members of the British Royal Family who chose it were the late Princess Alice, on July 1st, 1862; Princess Christian, July 5th, 1366 her daughter, Princess Victoria, July 6th, 1891; Princess Beatrice, July 23rd, 1885; the Duchess of Fife, July 27th, 1889; and the Duke of York, July 6th, 1893. Last week s Drawing Room was a smart" func- tion, and was attended by many ladies in whom the public has taken, or still takes, deep interest. There was the witty and fascinating Miss Magot Tennant, now Mrs Asquith, and pretty sure to be a peeress some day. She wore her favourite bright cherry colour, and had a very original train entirely made of transparent chiffon, unlined with anything any heavier than itself, and trimmed with quantities of most lovely lace, a costly modern replica of some priceless old rose point. In itself it is a very valu- able piece of work, being remarkably fine. With Mrs Asquith was her brother s wife, presented on her marriage, and wearing her wedding gown. She carried a lovely goodyear bouquet of mauve and white orchids. The Duohoss of Marlborough was presented on her marriage in a wonderful wedding gown, with five flounces of magnificent English point and rich satin train bordered with finest pearl and silver embroidery, four inches wide. Her great height marks her out in a crowd. She has a girlish look and a very ingenous expression. She was presented by her mother-in-law, the Marchioness of Blandford, who is still one of the prettiest women in England. With her were her two daughters, the Ladies Lilian and Norah Spencer-Churchill, dressed alike in snowy satin and brocade. The Duchess of Westminster looked as charming as ever, with her soft bloom, in cream and gold brocade and train of English satin strewn with drifted tulle and geranium blossoms in every colour. The Duchess of Portland wore a very remarkable looking dress of white satin, with enormous square epaulettes of silvered net. The front of the bodice was draped with similar net and some very beautiful lace, some of which was disposed on the skirt, which was embroidered up the front and sides with long sprays of silver and dia- mond narcissi and green leaves. The train was white satin. The Duchess of St klbans, in mauve and black and old rose point, presented her young- est daughter, Lady Alex. Beauclerk, the latter wearing a girlishly pretty presentation gown. It was intended that the Duchess's newly-married daughter, Lady Katharine Somers Somerset, should have been presented at the same Drawing Room by her mother-in-law, Lady Henry Somerset, but the list was already full, and the two last named ladies have had to postpone going until June. The gowns which illustrate the stirring drama of Cheer, boys, cheer j at the Shakespeare Theatre are indeed costly and magnificent examples of Worth's genius. I doubt if the great firm has ever accomplished anything finer than the costumes in the liurlingliani polo scene and those of the re- ception in the last act. The whole panorama of modern fashion is seen at a giance, forming a valuable object lesson in dress as it is and is to be. A gown of soft heliotrope silk is bordered with large purple pansies all the way round the hem, each pansy centred with a brilliant. A single row of pansies is set from waist to hem down the left side. The bodico is veiled in sequined lace, and the corsage arranged with heliotrope velvet. The sleeves, which are draped it silver sequin chiffon, are looped up with pansies and held in place by shoulder straps of brilliants. A black satin princess robe is sumptuous. The entire front of the skirt is painted in a design of pink ros-s and foliage, and slashed at the back with pale green satin bordereu with black and silver sequins. The sleeves are slashed with black satin, bordered with bands of black and silver sequins, intersected with loose puffs of pil.k chiffon and displaying, in some marvellous manner, the lining of pale green satin. Exquisitely simple is a costume in black jetted crape, with the decolletage uudined by a broad band of cut jet, and the frilled sleeves caught on the shoulders with diamond buckles. Another reception dress of black satin is pannelled with jet, and has a wonderful bjdice of black satin and jetted white tulle arranged crosswise in folds, a row of brilliams accentuating the contrast between black and white. Much puffed sleeves, one of black satin, the other ot white tulle, and a waistbelt of brilliants complete this original costume. An evening cloak of ruby velvet, lined throughout with white satin, is adorable. The large sleeves are of embossed white satin and velvet and voluminous folds of white chiffon encircle the neckband, aud form smart, bows in front. A large clasp of brilliants serves to fasten the cloak at the left side. 1 should like to say H. word aoout the vivid- culoureli straws which have now made their appearance. These cerLainiy lOOK very bright without being as vulgar as one might have expected; colours aro certainly not mixed pell mell as they were last year for one thing. Hough fancy straws lovely shades of brown, moss green, and a subdued tone of cedar, are the most fashionable tints which meet my eye. Bonnets as well as hats have a some- what broad effect gained by the trimming. The shapes themselves are not large. This wide look is obtained by projectmg arrangements of lace, tulle, an.i ribbon, between wliioti are placed groups of flowers, generally speaking without foliage of aLY kind. Specially becoming to the matron are the lovely purple shades 01 the polyanthus, primula, petunia, and anemone worn in black bonnets, the auts naruiouisiug v\itii iiie taolnonable dresses of the same shade of colour. One hat I recently saw may interest my readers. It was a large cedar- may interest my readers. It was a large cedar- brown straw, the trimmings wide gros-grain, green shot, with cedar, crimson roses, aud line cream lisse frilling. The ribbon in front was put on I broad and low, whilst behind were only two or three upstanding loops to form a background to I mass of crimson bloom nestling in its own foliage. The whole effect was softened by the dainty lisse I frilling edged with fine lace of the same shade. This mode of toning down the bright flowers or colours in a hat or bonnet is becoming quite popular. A word as to the growing popularity of the loose backed coat. Some of these models seem to have been brought out merely for the sake of having I something new to show. To my mind, the baggy sacque coat is somewhat grotesque and very un- becoming, except perhaps in cage 0f a few 8]jm figures. I tl ink nothing loofes so smart as the neat little beige jackets which our fashionable women are adopting for morning spring wear. A great improvement to these is made by adding cuffs and reefers in various shades, such as brown, black, or dark blue velvet. However, I must confess that some of the sacque jackets are very smartly modelled, one of the best being cut with a yoke at the back, and from this yoke the fabric is pleated in and stitched down, flaring slightly below the waist line, but not so much as -to cause any ripple effect. Another popular model has double-breasted fronts, a little curved in at the darts, the back rather close fitting, leg of mutton sleeves and wide plush or velvet collar and cuits. I think I may venture to assert that such a jacket will be, always excepting the cape, the most Papular outside gar- ment this spring. By the way it is no longer good form to ornament the front of our knock-about jackets with large metal or light mother-o'-pearl buttons, decidedly smaller ones 0f cloth like the coat, dull bone, or smoked pearl taking their place. It is a good thing too to see such barbaric orna- ments disappearing from ladies' attire. As to materials, silk velvet is very popular for smart visiti.ig capes and coats, rich lace passementerie or sequin trimming giving the necessary artistic finish. Very dressy capes too are laiade of combina- tion of satin and lace with jet or chiffon ruching as a garniture. If golf and the other sports of the out-of doors are to make our girls loud-voiced, ill-mannered, un- ga.inly, in a word nnfeminine, it is high time to protest against their continuance. We want the chaperon in excelsis, it seems to iiie. It were better that our women were veiled and cloistered. like the women of the unspeakable Turk," than that they should bring such reproach against the sex. When the first New Woman put forth her hand in the garden of Eden and plucked the forbidden fruit, did some faint presage stir her blood of the genera- tions of women who were to inherit her idiosyncra- sies and to perpetuate her follies ? These ebullitions of the sex, these occasional revolts against national decrees which pain and initate us, what are they, after all, but some savour of the old Eve showing itself in a new form in a later age ? DAISY BELL. +—

VAGRANCY IN MERIONETHSHIRE.…

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