Cuddio Rhestr Erthyglau

17 erthygl ar y dudalen hon



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-—-in.—i1HLw GOSSIP ON DBESS.…


-—-in.—i1 HLw GOSSIP ON DBESS. A NOTABLE event in the fashionable world last week was the marriage of the Hon. Hallam Tennyson, eldest son of Lord Tennyson (the Poet Laureate), with M^s Audrey Boyle, only daughter of Mr, Charles John Boyle, which was solemnised in Henry YII.'s Chapel, Westminster Abbey, by special license. The bride was attired in rich white satin, simply but elegantly made, the front being draped with flounces of Brussels point de gaze and over a few sprays of orange blossom in her hair was arranged a large handsome lace veil, which nearly concealed her features and fell in graceful folds about her. Her veil was fastened with diamond stars, and she carried a lovely bouquet. The bridesmaids looked exceedingly well in dresses of ivory-white silk, covered with Indian muslin and trimmed with lace, and lace bonnets trimmed with large blue feather aigrettes; the children wearing dresses to corres- pond, made after Sir Joshua Reynolds, and hats to match. Each carried a bouquet of pink and white carnations and maidenhair fern. Mrs. Charles Boyle, mother of the bride, was attired in grey satin, trimmed with Brussels lace, and osier bonnet with grey feathers. Lady Tennyson wore French grey moire and white lace, with close white Quaker like bonnet. Lady Sarah Spencer's was a handsome dress of bronze satin, trimmed with ribbon velvet and lace, and a lace bon- net. Mrs. Gladstone was in blue velvet and satin trimmed with white lace. and wore a bonnet to match. The Countess of Selborne wore plum-coloured satin, with bonnet to harmonise; and Lady Sophia Palmer's dress was composed of coffee-coloured lace over white silk, and lace bonnet to match. Lady Wolseley looked well in a steel-grey satin skirt, draped with fine black lace, and jacket bodice of grey broch6 velvet, with steel buttons; bonnet and feathers en suite; her daughter also being simply dressed in grey broche with large grey straw hat and feathers. Lady Mar- garet Browne's was a tasteful dress in two shades of smoke-grey cashmere, and bonnet to harmonise; and Lady Wm. Compton was becomingly attired in silver- grey cashmere trimmed with satin of the same shade, and a deep red bonnet. The bride's travelling dress was of white cambric, handsomely trimmed with em- broidery, and white lace bonnet with white aigrette. FLOWERS continue to be held in high favour for all purposes of decoration. The Queen, in its weekly fashion article, says Garlands of white giant stock, and others of blush-tinted peonies, are handsome and novel as trimming for ball gowns of white and all pale colours. The scent of the former is found most re- freshingly fragrant, and the blossoms look lovely when tastefully mingled with plenty of light quaking grass. An exquisite natural trimming consists also of long trails of delicate foliage, grasses, and ferns, and closely-set knots of bluettes, near which are placed gay-coloured butterflies of feathers or painted velvet. A ball dress of stone-grey tulle and a bodice of corn- flower satin was trimmed in this way with striking effect. The skirt had long lines of the flowers and ferns, which fell from the waist to the edge, each one finished with a cockscomb rosette of grey satin ribbon, a single row of which connected the bows all round. The bodice was trimmed with a ruche of grey tulle and cornflowers singly placed. The berthe was entirely of natural blossoms and foliage, with epaulette loops of grey ribbon. Yellow butterflies appeared to disport themselves among the flowers on bodice and skirt, and were poised on the closely-curled hair. The handle of the palm-leaf fan (flower- decked to match the dress) was tied up with grey satin ribbon. IN an article on London Fashions the same journal says Flounces of lace or embroidered net over skii-ts of some bright soft silk, and worn with a bodice of plain gros-grain or satin brocaded with velvet, are the toilettes now usually donned for after- noon calls or At homes but here is another still newer material which is used for entire costumes, and at present is much in demand— merely fine muslin curtains in white and all shades of bege, and covered with patterns of Persian design in silks of true Eastern dye. From several examples] of these original toilettes we selected one which we now describe for the benefit of those of our readers medi- tating the acquisition of yet just one more dress, and in search of the last new thing." This, how- ever, was not of the curtain stuff only, but was made as an overdress with a skirt of shot silk—slate-colour mingled with gold, which was composed of a number of flounces slightly fulled on, and each one pinked at the edge. The muslin overdress was beautifully draped, the material apparently lending itself to indes- cribably artistic effects in the matter of folds and gathers, and was everywhere trimmed with cascade frills of bege-tinted scale pattern lace. The bodice was cut as a Zouave jacket, with a loosely-held blouse front of silk, which fell to the waist in folds. At the back was a short plaited tail, cut up and showing the silk the sleeves were made half length and plain, and the cuffs were of shot silk and lace. The charm of the costume lay in the novel material used, its pleasing and subdued colouring, and its draperies, deftly arranged, which can be but faintlv indicated through the medium of pen and ink. DINNER dresses of black Chantilly lace are still a la mod.e and well worn, the skirts fully puffed and en paniers over petticoats of coloured Merveilleux, Surah, silk serge, or shot silk, the lace caught up with velvet ribbons and tassels of faceted beads. A shot silk of bronze and red had the plain round skirt bordered with a narrow kilting, and veiled with black piece lace in a pattern of roses and leaves. The festooned overdress was caught up high on the left hip, and fastened by a cluster of long hanging velvet loops of black, bronze, and dull brick red the close fitting bodice was of broche silk, the red ground displaying a pattern of rose leaves in shades of green; it was trimmed with ruches and frills of black lace, and bows with long ends of velvet. A second dress, an elaborate combination of mushroom and blue shot silk, with lace over cheese-yellow silk, and lace covered plastron of blue, was a very remarkable study of colour, and both new in conception and make. The front of the skirt had a graduated plastron of very pale chalk-blue silk, which served as a lining to cream-coloured lace, both folded in fine narrow plaits, which spread out from the waist to the edge. On either side were horizontal flounces of pinked-out yellow silk beneath others of gathered lace; and further back yet were long looped draperies of fawn and pale blue shot silk, caught high on the hips with bows of mushroom velvet, the ends cut in cockscomb points. Down the centre of the back was a succession of knife-kilted flounces, each cut in dents at the edge. Just below the point of the jacket bodice, which was of shot silk, with yellow waist- coat, bag-shaped and veiled with cream lace, was a wide scarf drapery, folded in front, and carried behind to the edge of the basque, where it was tied in a loose knotted bow at the top of the flounced back breadths. A third was of similar design, though elegant, of tambour-worked Tussore silk, and plain silk of the same quiet tone. At the edge of the skirt was a gathered flounce of finely sprigged Calais lace, and the apron front was of figured lace, with streamers of satin-linedribbon, which fell from the waist at each side. The overdress, festooned on the hips and draped in long loops at the back, was also of Tussore silk, but thickly embroidered with small groups of vine leaves, with stalks and tendrils of bronze-tinted silk French knots. A bodice of crimson satin, high to the throat, was worn with this pretty skirt; it was profusely adorned with bege-coloured lace, and finished with bows of red ribbon. This silk is worked also in various colours—in sapphire, myrtle, and brown. The bodice and ribbons would therefore accord with the darkest shade used in the pattern. IN an article on Paris Fashions," a London morn- ing paper says: White nun's veiling is one of the most favoured materials for smart carriage dresses. There are many ways of making them look novel and pretty. One gown of this kind has a broad band of "new born-leaf" green velvet on the bottom edge, and is tuckered above. Over this again is draped a long plain polonaise tunic, the bodice full in front and secured round the waist with a folded band of velvet. Another white dress is embroidered down the front and round the bottom of the skirt with gold, after the manner of some of the Eussian national costumes, while others, of a more simple and less expensive description, are plentifully decorated with ivory- white mohair lace-a very recent introduction, in- deed. Ribbons improve the effect of these dresses— wherein velvet does not enter—immensely. Some- times bands of satin ribbon are sewn upon them, either perpendicularly or horizontally, the gown being made with full gathered skirt, like those in tulle, so much worn for dances. There is no more economical wear than these gowns of white veiling. They serve a double purpose, as the more simple robe of evening and the smart afternoon attire. IF coloured veiling is preferred there is a long list of colours and shades to choose from. Maize with a dash of green in it, golden beige, terra-cotta pink, telegraph blue, musk green, raspberries and cream' Narbonne honey, Malaga, moonstone, lavender, mignonette, and dove colour being perhaps the most in request. Some of the names are far-fetched, but they tell their own tale. By far the prettiest are mere or less trimmed with velvet-velvet bands on the skirt and velvet collars and trimming for the sleeves. Different shades of the fashionable reds- from brightest scarlet to deep maroon-are considered to suit them indifferently; but blue may be chosen for those of greenish tinge, and moss green is not so bad a harmony for the others. Tunics that fall low on one side and are gathered up on the other have the merit of novelty, besides being really pretty in them- selves. The edge which traverses the tablier diagon- ally is often lined with a band of the silk or velvet with which they are trimmed. This style of tunic and the form of some of the sleeves are, with the fresh variety of colour-contrasts, the most novel points about these as well as other dresses. Sleeves, cut wide and straight, gathered to the arm-hole and again just below the elbow, promise to become very fashion- able.










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