Weekly Mail

(ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.) I think Englishwomen are beginning to lnutate their French sisters in regard to attention given to the dressing of their hair 14 fashionable and becoming manner. Across Channel the "becoming" is the paramount j^&sideration; a Frenchwoman never sacri- her looks by blindly following a pre- vailing mode. If* at all, she follows it at a I afe distance, supposing that more intimate acquaintance would prove detrimental; and never looks out of the fashion in any case. 11 the contrary, should the mode of the foment happen to suit her face and parti- J? stv!e, a Frenchwoman knows how to the very best of herself under such avo«rable conditions, for she has quite a genius for adaptation, and whatever she puts it appears as if it had been especially desIgned for her benefit. Owing to the ani- mated play of her features and expressive gesticulations, a Frenchwoman's appearance 18 rarely the same many minutes together; a.nd, beside this charming versatility, she Possesses, as I have said before, a rare power *7 adapting herself to the time and to the tlli, sItuation, this varia bleness of mood, however, °t being always consistent with sincerity, Either with the more solid virtues which, I Iieve, oftener than not adorn the more a 0''d daughters of Albion. Not that I have ,ny intention of disparaging the delightful Ughters of another nation; our daughters d their natural characteristics severally are. £ wilt to all, and can suffer nothing, neither 111 anything, by my eulogium or depreciation, "expressed in this page. Nature, as a strikes an even balance. A make-weight i-khrown in first on one side, then on the eh "until the final adjustment of Quality is arrived at. A lady just come Paris tells me the fashion of waving i le hair, parting it on the centre of the and then bringing the front hair over j e ears, wholly or partially covering them, greatly on the increase in Paris. I would j sorry to see Englishwomen adopt this i I write with reference to such as ^Ve typical English faces—usually long with marked features, high foreheads, j hair not invariably covering the temples the way demanded bv strict canons of jeauty. To dress the hair in the manner Ve'So,'ibed would serve to elongate the face v *y Undesirably—just as to dress the hair J low on the neck serves to bring out € facial length. I have often before women who wish to find a becoming hk I co^'ure—by which I mean the style iuj.y to prove most becoming to themselves (jp.duy 11 y—to visit a fashionable hair- aurf —°ne w'10 has studied physiognomy, clip therefore, know how to dress his 'Ms ^a'r' uo^ °nlv fashionably, but li^e- ,are'e in becoming manner. Women's heads j i tl°t to be treated as hairdressers' dummies, often seen them, however, look as if y had all thought of the becoming being la the endeavour to display the ton- hai'^ ahility of the artist in hair. Avoid ar r + essers of this class; they are not real and ^air<b'essing being means to an end, a h D0^ ^'e tnc* itself, though admittedly' to n ^comingly coiffed is a charming crown ali tonsoriaj efforts. o Don't Follow Every Change. ]0oknce y°u have found a style suited to your th +S' ^a^-e pains to acquire proficiency in at style, and do not alter the fashion of coiffure with every change you see. e Princess of Wales—long and deservedly Recounted the most beautiful woman of her —has not altered the arrangement of her ?a,r for many years past, and the "Princess'' ^JQnet furnished us with another striking -anipig of the illustrious lady's wise judgment mutters of the toilette. Why should any ten*?3? ma^e an alteration that does not atlsnv UJ the betterment of her looks? Echo tiv-piers uhy ? It is only during compara- rei recent yeJr.; that Englishwomen have carefPfi a rePutatic.n for dressing their hair see with view to the becoming. We thin^ portraits of women who lived less •^triK-i-3 oeutury agone what very elaborate ■^ads nifS wei'e then raised on the head. °~ enormous size were used to distend hair m>ifGase the apparent abundance of the Ward), i 5,15 Fanihv Burney, Keeper of the III 'e of Queen Charlotte (wife of George of V e'.]s us that the "curling" and "craping" the tr*]1Vla'e.S'ty's "la*r °luite au hour, riarnPKS heing performed {•vice a week. P°rtra"-I 0IC1 Wednesdays and Saturdays. The as a I Miss Burney herself, which serves Very .f^ispiece to her diary, shows how a^°ptedU ka"e was ^tyle of liairdressiag Writers, 2, ^ie cream of diarists and memoir after th e. laa'r at *e side is "craped, Crape(j?> hion of the present day—the term able « coming into use again ns « fasbion- "waved" and then it is attaine 1 j c'c over a Pa(h great width being are {.] a y this means the ends of the hair lenity, eil1 arrayed in two loops of unequal of °lJaj Jlese aho padded. The lower loop arrancrl 'mv 011 the neck. The same arrall,"I,e tn either side of the at.f Course, the very large hats worn rations inne were necessitated by the elabo- hats s de,.¡cribe; or, was it that monstrous l'ated ere the inevitable outcome of exagge- ^'nvadaTH1 if1'9S8'1! M'^ilfcrs tell us that ^"rdin'o-1 + 'V have to maice hats and bonnets I'oiisori.af •t'ie dictates of the hairdressers, are t.Ko artists, however, affirm that they those v.-v,S aves tiie milliners. Many of «l1VL Lare admirers of Dr. Johnson—and, tirtie paj.| a\e., ^"hed he had lived in our o 61 an a century and more agone that unl'nS° i ^iemsplves with the thought le°tUal tlle ec'2entricities of that intel- Societv )Hn'' had l)een refined away, his ]fj 10u"ever delightful in some ways, the van"t a'together devoid of risk to J-1 anCy Jy of the company, all and sundry. ittstifUvi S0(^iety lady, who has more or less ravarfL ('°,ne her very best to hide the Satisf.^ time, and is swelling with the «Ur!r| _10n of a successful issue, being ffter in*, .ronted by Ursa Major, who. into si)r,i 'in^ fixedly at her. broke out aloud "1 a iriotion as follows: —• Sin:(/\i/|ches, paint, and powder on, But 1 hs is not twentv-one The i! night you PhilliJ see \rr lle at least is fortv-three." We are rp, e-s's outspoken before people's faces hovvever ,eTscene I relate actually happened, the ren l 's sa''l the lady addressed took Sayin, A vei-y good-humouvedly. merely • know enough of fortv-three—I ^Ver )lre he«r any more of it." Wliat- l! c°gnisinf7 of Ursa Maior's RPirit' lh thani-f ) of things mundane, must ConM U have lived out his day, when a ^ni'eh"ked blurt out atrocities of Dangerous and destructive, in one ^°u'd 1 o"6 ^Ursting of a cannon in our midst v«ry ,e another way. We have grown so 1, 6 are°mPraisant at the end of this century: are Wh ftnd close our eyes fast not to Me ai,e not meant to sec—that is, 1JPear to do so. Th Skirts and Blouses. 1 «iaptKari^ of skirts distinct in colour a- from the bodices they accom- pany is well maintained. In many shops skirts of crepon, black satin, satin duchesse, and other and like materials, are sold ready for wear; blouse-waists also are to be pur- chased ready made in infinite variety. Dressmakers already complain of decrease of custom owing to this infringement on their province. A woman can walk into a shop, find a skirt, well cut, ready to hand. and in the same shop, or otherwhere, will easily find a blouse-waist as smart-looking or as neat in character as she pleases, which, with a little alteration—often enough without any alteration—will fit her perfectly, since much skill has been brought to bear on this fashion. Very inexpensive blouse-bodices rarely fit pro- perly, but better makes need very little alte- ration to adapt them to particular figures. Crfcpon skirts, lined silk throughout, cost about forty-five shillings each; omitting the N-o. 2,135.—THE "ATHOL" DRESS, 12 TO 14 AND '¡ 14 TO 16 YEARS. A stylish and becoming dress is here represented, I made of green cashmere, trimmed with a darker shade of silk and ecru lace insertion. The round I bodice is arranged with a full front gathered at the neck and centre of waist, fixed to the foundation, and fastened in the centre invisibly with hooks, being tiimii'ed each side with bretelies of lace insertion. The neck is finished with a full collar of silk, fastened on the left eide under a rosette of the .same. a similar one being secured on the right side. The waist is neatened with a full band of silk, also deco- rated with rosettes. The gigot sleeves are lined throughout, and linished at the wrist, with a full cuff and rosette of silk. The fulness at the top is gathered into the armhole. The gored skirt is lined with sateen, and faced at tlie lower edge with the same interlined with muslin. It is fitted to the figure with darts at the waist, the fulness at the back being gathered into the band, and the two front seams twvered with wide lace insertion to match that on the bodice. Four tn, "quarter to four and three- quarter yards of 46 inch material will be required, one yard of silk on the cross, 14 yard of wide insertion, and one yard of narrow. The pattern is in thirteen parts—half front, side gore and back of skirt, half front, full overpart.. two sidepieces and back of bodice, half collar foundation, full overpart, half-full waistband, gigot sleeve, and cuff. silk lining, much less covers the cost. You may wear six or seven different blouses with such a skirt. and the effect produced as that of as many distinct gowns. With lace yokes, with garnitures of jet or of pa.ssementerie, ribbon braces and similar oontrivances one may still further vary the appearance of the blouses severally. Poppy red silk is being much used for blouses, alt-hough the colour is hardly consistent with the season. Still, with such adjustable garnitures of jet as are now to be bought, poppy red blouses may be made to look very elegant, indeed, -and' the colour agreeably tempered—smart, in fact (I hate the word, but know no substitute for it). White or cream guipure lace would spoil the effect of a red blouse entirely. Alpacas Becoming Popular. Alpacas grow in favour; they are produced in shot effects; also in black and white severally, and in an endless range of pretty bright self-colours, such as cornflower blue and petunia, fawn coloured shot with helio- trope, and biscuit alpaca shot grey may be mentioned with favour when combinations of colour are preferred to self-colours. I con- sider that gowns made of alpaca look best trimmed with ribbon, or with velvet in con- nection with lace. Black alpaca gowns can be made very dressy by judicious combina- Xo. 2,52J.—THE "BELLE" BODICE, 22, 25. AND 23-IXCH WAIST. A new and charming bodice is here represented, imade of a dull shade of heliotrope crepon trimmed with a darker shade of ribbon. The back is quite plain, fitted with the usual sidepieces. The fulness in the centre of front is gathered and secured at the neck, and again just below the bust. then arranged in small pleats to the edge of P^teil basque. It fastens in the centre under a fold of rJJboa- fulness each side being outlined with foids of the same graduated to the edge of bodice, which is finished with a fold of ribbon fastened under a bow in front, to correspond with the high collar, which completes the neck. The coat-shape sleeve toimda- tion is faced with material to the cil»"w, y' ier t' full puff is gathered on unaer a fold of nbDon finished with a smart bow of the same. Tne fulu^. at the top is gathered into the armhole and deco- rated with a bow of ribbon on each shoulde,, tae wrists being trimmed with a fold and how of the same. Two and a half yards ot 44-mcU ™^eml will be required, and eight yards of ribbon. The pattern is in nine parte-half front, full overpart, two side- pieces and back of bodice, upper and underpart of sleeve foundation, full puff, and conar band. tion with colour or with wiiite wnite sr.tin or peach blossom glace silk .suggest them- selves to me as a happy combination with black alpaca. One dress of this labric was made with adjustable revetsona pair of revers were black satin, richly embroidered with jet, to be substituted as occasion de- manded by white .satin revers, covered butter colour guipure; waistband and folded collar to correspond. Sweeping these aside, a large sailor collar of white lawn, insertion, and wide frill of butter-colour lace, including deep turn-back cuffs to match, gives a totally different character to the gown, and the folded collar can be made of green satin, ■with folded belt to correspond. A delicate shade of pale yellow green will be found most effective for the purpose. Flounces to the Fore. I went last week to see a grand display of gowns prepared for Ascot Races, and per- ceived that flounces were a feature of them not to be overlooked. Whether or no this is intended as an inauguration of flounces I cannot say, out this lorm 01 trimming skirt. though presented in great variety, did not commend itself to me. There were three frills near the edge of one skirt, each frill being edged with ribbon of a different colour. Another skirt displayed a. flounce which reached to above the knees, and was headed with a ruche of ribbon. Again, a flounce deeply van- dyked, placed some distance above the skirt edge; the points of the Vandykes did not reach the edge—a very ugly arrangement by the way. Also there were on another skirt two flounces of equal width—say, fifteen inches these drawn upon piping cord, with no head- ing material above. In short, flounces repre- sented as I describe did not appeal to me in the least. Still, if I assume the prophetic, I incline to the belief that this long-discarded fashion is likely to re-appear boldly, and C that before very long our gowns will all be decorated with flounces. Elegant Collar. A very elegant large sailor collar, which would form a fashionable and very efficient trimming for a plain tight-fitting bodice, can be bought for thirteen shillings and nine- pence. This collar is made of fine white lawn, trimmed Valenciennes lace and inser- tion and I have also seen a yoke collar, which is a reproduction of old Flemish lace, which costs a fraction less than five shillings. If I had that same five shillings to spare I would certainly invest in one of these yoke collars. Apropos to these ultra-fashionable bodice decorations of lawn, lace, embroidered muslin, &c., I give the following information. To be worn with an open fronted coat, a dressy set composed of vest, collar, and cuffs of white embroidered muslin. trimmed with rows of narrow butter-colour lace, can be bought for less than seven shillings. A fine lawn set, trimmed with white muslin, em- broidered insertion, and butter-colour Valen- ciennes lace, is sold for eleven shillings and ninepence the set. The collar is detachable, and can with the cuffs be worn separately when the vest is not required. The same set can be had in sky, pink, or butter-colour lawn. A catalogue, containing illustrations of the sets I have named and others, can be had on application, Corset Covers. I will just call attention—before concluding No. 2,543.—THE "MAGUIKE" TOILETTE, 22 AND 25-INCH WAIST. A smart and attractive model is here represented, composed of green figured crepon, black silk, and iet for trimming. The stylish godet skirt is lined with sateen, and fitted to the figure in front with liarta at the waist; the two front seams are trimmed with jet insertion, finished at the lower edge with a jet ornament. The three back gores are interlined with hair cloth, the centre one being placed to a fold to avoid a seam, then arranged in three box- pleats, and secuied to the band to set out in full liutes to the lower edge. The round bodice founda- tion is arranged with a vest, which is covered with silk and jet, secured on the left side, and fastened on the right side invisibly with hooks. The over- fronts are stitched in a box-pleat each side, then secured to the foundation at the neck and waist, where it droops gracefully over a band of silk covered with iet insertion. The black is quite plain across the shoulders, the slight fulness at the waist set in three small pleats each side to meet in the centre. The neck is completed with a high collar band. covered with folded silk crossed in front, and deco- rated each side with a smart bow of ribbon. The full bishop sleeves are gathered into the armhole over a coat-sliapcd foundation, and again at the wrist between the upper edge of a cuff of double silk interlined with canvas. Four and three-quarter yards of 44-inch crepon will be required, 4 yards of 24-inch silk, 2.1i yard I' of jet insertion, two jet ornaments, 1 jet vest, and 1 yard of ribbon. The pattern is in eighteen parts—half front, side gore, second gore and half centre back gore of skirt, half vest, front, two sidepieces and back of bodice foundation, full over- part of back and box-pleated front, half waistband, collar foundation, full overpart, upper and underpart of sleeve foundation, full sleeve and cuff. -to the new corset covers. They are especially designed to wear under blouses, doing awav with the necessity of a tight lining to the same that consideration appeals to one with the approach of hot weather, when the grasshopper is apt to be a burden, let alone tight-fitting apparel. The new corset cover keeps the figure firm, but 11 1, it is exceedingly light in weight and thin, and does not increase' the size of the waist. In white Jaconet, and post free, the price is two shillings and twopence. Big cravats are likely to lie worn again and, if of lace, the bow is generally wired, standing out widely on either side the chin. The ends are carried down the front of the bodice in pleats. and fastened at the waist by ornamental safety pins. New Toilet Table. I notice that a Scotchman living in Govan has patented -a toilet table fitted with two mirrors hinged on vertical pivots, these doing duty with the ordinary swing mirror; so that a woman standing between the side mirrors and before the front looking-glass can see a perfect reflection of her figure at all points. So we have at last the "giftie" lono- desired of the gods, and can "see our- selif as ithers see us. I wonder if we shall be satisfied with the view afforded us. If not-well, it won't be the first time, pro- bably, that we have reaped the misery of a granted prayer. Bridemaids' Gowns. White crepon of a rather transparent kind, made with daffodil silk lining, and trimmed satin to match, makes charming bridemaids' gowns. The bodices should be made entirely of yellow satin, with lace yokes. Paste buttons would be used to fasten the bodice. A guest at a recent wedding wore a black crepon skirt lined pink silk, with a orepon shoulder cape to match. Very pretty, too, was the dress worn by another g-uest at the same ceremony the olive green crepon skirt was surmounted by a blouse-waist of pink chine silk. A black hat, trimmed black lace, pink roses, and black feathers, was worn in connection. Black Roses. We heard a great deal about green carna- Xo. 2,495.—THE "DORA" DRESS, 12 TO 14 AND 14 TO 16 YEARS. A dainty and stylish dress is here represented, made of crimson colour wool crepon, trimmed with satin ribbon to match, and ecru guipure lace inser- tion. The skirt is lined with sateen, and fitted to the figure in front with darts at the waist, the ful- ness at the back being gathered into the band, and tike lower edge trimmed all round with a row of inserticn. The front of the round bodice is arranged with a full vest gathered at the neck and just above the waist, over the fitted foundation, fastened in- visibly with hooks in the centre, the full cross over parts being gathered into the shoulder seams, and cross slanting right over left, where it fastens under a rosette and ends of ribbon at the waist. The neck is completed with a Irigh collar band covered with insertion. Large revers outline the vest, and cortinue round the back in a square cut collar, edged with a row of insertion. The gigot sleeves are arranged over a fitted foundation, being finished at the wrist with two rows of insertion. Four and a half to 5 yards of 44-inch crepon will be required, 71 yards of insertion, and 2 yards of ribbon. The pattern is in fifteen parts—half front, side gore and back of skirt, front foundation, half full vest, right and left overfront, two sidepieces and back of bodice, collar band and half rever collar, upper and under part of sleeve foundation, and gigot sleeve. tiens at one time, but the fame of these is surpassed by a more daring atrocity perpe- trated on long-suffering Mother Nature. v\*e have chosen to wear artificial black roses in our millinery, but wlien we learn that real roses as black as soot are to be had we shall, I think, consider .the horticulturist'who has achieved this victory over Nature is not t > be congratulated on such perversion of natural order. Needless to "gild the lily," more need- less still to paint the rost—Queen of the garden -blac.,i. Bathing Costumes. For a bathing costume, smart in effect and useful withal, follow the directions I give here —The upper portion of the blouse is a square yoke fitted by shoulder seams, a.nd to 1 it is joined the lower portion, which is shaped by a seam at the centre of the back. and gathered across the top at the front and back severally. The drawing are extensions of the blouse, blue serge, with bands of white serge as a. trimming, is the material used. The neck is finished with a jaunty sailor collar of white rerge that is deep and square at the back. and rounds to points and ends in front. The plaited ends of white sierge are tacked under the collar. and are knotted sailor fashion. The sleeves are a full bishop shape. Flannel and serge are ———————————————————————————— ) Xü. 2,493.—THE "FRANCIS" COSTUME, (I TO 10 AND 10 TO 12 YEARS. A new and stylish model is here illustrated, suit. able for best wear. It is made of reseda green cloth, trimmed with a darker shade of velvet. The princess robe is gathered at the neck and waist front and back over a round-waisted bodice foundation, and fastens in the centre of the back with hooks: A turndown collar of velvet completes the neck. Tlte waist is neatened with a folded band of velvet. The gigot sleeves are lined throughout, the fulness at the top hebg pleated into the armhole. The lower edge of dress is faced with sateen, and the fronts trimmed with two box-pleats lined with muslin, which taper at the bust, and are secured each side urder a smart bow" of velvet. It is then slip-stitehed twm the waist to the edg-e of skirt. Three and a quarter to 3? yards of 44-inch material will be re- quired, and three-quarters of a yard of 22-inch, velvet. The pattern is in ten parts—front, two sideoieces,' and back of bodice foundation, full overpart of back and front, one box-pleat, half oi full waistband, turn- down collar, and gigot sleeve. _4. the best materials, for bathing suits, blue and grey ate favoured colour. White or red braid —» is suitable for trimming or bands of contrasting material. Price of pattern, with accomp .uying illustrations, and directions for making the dress, is Is. 3d. If any reader wishes some- thing Jess (subdued 'than blue and white, she may remember that-serge is now dyed in seve- ral bright colours, green, red, brown, pile blue, etc., but I consider a pretty bathing suit in unobtrusive colours is in better taste in this country, at least, than a suit that attra-cts notice by its smartness.