Weekly Mail

ALL RiijrLil t- KS liRYifiX) FEMININE FOIBLES, FANCIES and FASHIONS k Blues that rival the cobalt of a midsummer S Y. or the pale azure tint of the morning; No. 1.&M. THE "MAU'lARET" DRESS, 4 TO 6 AXD 6 TO 8 YEARS. With'" ^inty '^le 'Ires? is made in crepon. trimmed in laog an,j i„ertion, or it may made in line Wh5' neek is fitted with a square yoke fastened •i. J hooks at the centre of the back, being ;inisht>d the neck witn a falling frill of lace. The dies* j, knocked with a frill at the top, and secured lo e yoke, the lower part having a deep hem, with caA0" insertion above. Tlie full sleeves are ^.ftftred at the armhoie over the plain foundation, w l knocked just, above the elbow and again at the *6bi leaviu" a fir" at tlls p(i?e- 2J to 3i yards of fnulorial, and 2} vaels of insertion, with J in 7 -Var<1 of lace bu required. The pattern is Parts—half front aud back of yoke, half front torn, i dress, under and upper part of sleere delation. an<l full overpart. Sll in *<ine no^' the after-glow of of h ^roens repeat the varying shades? and su grounding foliage mist-like greys, £ „ eveiy shade of brown—these are the fashion. Heliotrope, yellow, and jn !5<e. a'So> but these are most frequently seen u*iion with other tones, friendly or other- aJ.e'> in the latter ease, black invariably iSmg as. tl»e mediator. Black is brought its° 'uisition even in the lightest fabrics, r„ /lPPea-rance imparting character and inte- rim, everv class of goods, whether diapha- nous or substantial. Ribbons and Laces. sibl ° and lace are considered indi-pen- tatf^l to tlte class of gowns now dic- h y ^ashion. The very newest ribbons lis^6 e'^Ses °f velvet or of lace. Black silk j Se t'ibbon is another novel variety, and is v- ?ev used to veil silk or ribbons dyed in h'V'r? c!°urs. There are likewise costly and-painted ribbons, and ^auze ribbons with or lace edges. Wide ribbons, narrow 1'1 boons—in short, never did the ribbon eavers turn out so much variety as the cr* i vCt of t'ieir looms- seems almost in- ^Qaible at this day to believe that hardly re than a dozen and a half years agoue lõo. 2,510. THE "BRADFORD" TOILETTE, This st 25, AXT) 29 IV<"H WAIST. J**a<le of 'doming dress is here illustrated o,Ilc* jet. -pi crel)cn' trimmed with satin, libb.n, ^een, „ 8ored skirt in lined throughout with tbp f I" to tiie tig a re with darts at the l)y,nf) „U ,le!IS at the back being1 gathered into '?f, the lower edge faced with sateen, ."Ud muslin. The front foundation of PPer jxirt fitted to just below the waist, the Inateriii "K1 covered with a plain square yoke fatlierert *° nipet the full fronts, which are slightly t "aids Hm 068 l'"e 'iust, and pleated at the waist "Ookjj.„i centre, where it fastens invisibly with whic}, r "st: is trimmed across with pointe<l shouldn/°noealfl join, and is continued over ^°ke..rn8' a'#0 acrofls the hack to imitate a square Pahrt, ecu-C, "f'k is completed with a high collar ltl a f„]| ,f with the folded collar of satin, gathered a full b Peach wde. The waist is neatened with l>ow a.„j satin, fastened on the right side under ^'itli a on" long end of satin ribbon, finished Mso to ornanifnt. A smart 1k>w of satin ribbon Jleeves ;4,,„r 're'' 0|' the right shoulder. The gigot ein.sr .,nfi "ned throughout, the fulness at the top 'utn the armhole. 5i to oj yards of Satiri rm Ifna' %vdl be required, i a yard of 26in. Poin^ri Cr°8s' 2i vards of satin ribbon. 14 yaixls Daru J,e aiw! 1 ornament The pattern is in t n, full front and hr.ck of skirt, front founda- t n, full front and hr.ck of skirt, front founda- r.f i overI>art and lialf yoke, two sidepieces and Wa«Uh1,„V!>,ll"e- collar foundation, full overpart, full gigot sleeve. s^e the Coventry ribbon weavers ruinously slaok that a special appeal was made to some Royal personages, begging them to bestow their patronage on ribbon, and thus give a much-needed impetus to a languishing—nay. almost expiring—industry. Previous to this it had long been the fashion to make bonnets of silk, lace. or tulle for summer wear, velvet, Terry-velvet, &c., being their substitutes in winter, and one and i.11 being trimmed chiefly with artificial flowers, which left small need for the introduction of ribbon. As a trimming for dresses, ribbon .wa-s hardly thought of. and the distress amongst weavers, consequent on this decree of Fashion, was extreme. At that time it was impossible to suppose anything approach- ing the present popularity of, and demand for, ribbon. The existing lfourishing state of trade in Coventry must surpass the wildest dreams of those engaged in it. Fortures are rapidly made ov manufacturers, and one hopes that the operatives share in some degree the prosperity of their employers. The turn of Fashion's wheel, like the revolutions of the wheel of Dame Fortune, can bring about ex- traordinary changes, and can make, and as easily mar, the financial prosperity, which may also include the happiness of thousands. We shall do well to remember this, and be prepared for inevitable changes. A wheel is the symbol employed, and that is suggestive of rotation; the ascendancy of the typical day of prosperity is rarely evenly maintained. "To-day for me, To-morrow for thee," so runs the axiom. This is as it should be, and the scales of justice are more evenly balanced in this respect than we—being short-sighted -are sometimes inclined to believe. Muslin. Muslin and lace, no less than ribbon, are indispensible to the fashionable toilette, for it cannot be complete unless all three are largely employed. All kinds of dainty adjuncts are made of these materials. Narrow or wide collars of spotted muslin or hem-stitched lawn, yokes of lace, and muslin vests and fichus-these are only a fe'w of the shapes designed, and very narrow ribbon is pressed into service as an additional feature. Vi.ienciennes insertion is sometimes edged on either side with very tiny satin ribbon. Ribbon of this kind is likewise very frequently threaded in lace or drawn through embroi- dered muslin, trimmed with lace. I noticed a very tasteful corsage trimming worn over a cream silk bodice, the front of which was only a very little full. The colhr-hand and waist-band were green velvet; and the deco- ration I draw attention to covered the lower half of the bodice, both back and front, being connected by straps of green velvet ribbon carried over the shoulders. The fulness of this lo ver half, in front, slightly overhung the waist-band, which fastened in a bow on the left side. The materials used were eni- broi.Ved net, mounted on thin green silK; but lace and insertion might be used instead- of net. and I have s-en a similar corsage trimming made of band* of clear muslin em- broidery, edged on either side with Valen- ciennes lace. There were seven of these narrow bands unconnected, except wiiere joined in a corresponding band that crossed the figure above the bust, the lower ends of the embroidered bands being set into a plain muslin band, which was concealed by the waist-belt; the loops of embroi very, however, falling negligently over it. H t if sieves made of muslin, insertion, and lace are fre- quently worn indoors with gowns which have removable sleeves from the elbow down- wards. The arm shows through the trans- parent substitute with admirable effect. A black satin corsage made with removable sleeves was rendered exceedingly smart-look- ing by the introduction of white transparent sleeves, and a half bodice made of muslin and lace, such a, I described above. These pretty and tasteful adjuncts may be made, of black net. and black lace, if approved, or a garniture of jet arranged to fall in corres- I ponding fashion can be worn in place of other bodice decoration. Jet garnitures are designed in every possible form, and, however applied, jet invariably adds richness of effect. Fichus of silk muslin, flounced with lace or trimmed with deep frills-one falling partially over the other-are always useful to impart a new aspect to a gown. Net is eminently easy of adjustment, and the frills may be edged narrow ribbon. Book-muslin is too stiff to look graceful, but Indian muslin drapes well, and is very inexpensive. The "Marie Antoinette'' liehu is most favoured, but all fichus need very careful adjustment, and the manner of arrangement differs according to the figure of the wearer-- or should do so. Wh en the shape is slender and the waist long. the fichu may be tied in front with a big bow and falling ends, or it can, with advantage, be crossed over the bust and tied at the back. When the waist is short, the fichu should be brought down to the waist-band, and the ends concealed under it. Addenda of this kind either greatly im- prove the wearer's appeal ance or give a "would- if-I-could" air decidedly to be avoided. Better not to attempt anything of the kind, unless absolutely sure that it suits your style and dress and. granting so much, above all be sure that you ca.n adjust supplemental decoration with skill. Patience and taste are requisites without which failure is a fore- gone conclusion. Crepon and Alpaca. Crepon has had to make way for alpaca. for morning wear, but holds its own where smarter gowns are necessitated. This crinklv material looks infinitely better than smooth stuffs do, now that skirts are so severely plain: but rain and dust are enemies to be feared by the wearers of erepon-arch- enemies bent on the destruction of a material that has driven so very many more servicable textiles wholly out of the market. Transparent Blouses. Many years agone loose transparent blouses of lace insertion were worn over a tight- fitting silk bodice. It was a very smart fashion, that has now been revived. Batiste, which is semi-transparent, is dyed in a variety of colours. It is made into blouses, and worn with tucked muslin collars and cuffs trimmed with lace. Quite immense are some of the collars now worn. They may be made of butter-colour muslin or of white silk, trimmed butter-colour lace; or, again, of white satin, with a design wrought in iridescent sequins. The woman who desires to look her best must not blindly follow any and every new fashion, but contrive to adapt fashion to her own special requirements. Take the large fashionable collars now worn as an example. I have known women pur- chase a. collar of this class, just taking the shape which pleased the fancy, without an-, thought beyond. Yet, a pattern less attrac- tive to her'might possibly suit her figure far better. An all-round shape is not so be- coming to most figures as a collar made square" back and front, or one with four points—one on either shoulder, and the other two on front and back respectively. Some becoming collars are elongated; they do not meet in front, but taper downwards, forming a border to the wide box-pleat which dis- tinguishes most blouse waists at this time. Waist Bands. Elastic waist-bands, covered with iridescent paillettes, are much worn, and can so easily be manufactured at home that it is not worth while to pay the large price demanded for a ready-made belt of the kind. A moderately wide elastic in several colours is sold for two shillings. I bought a green band, and covered it with green, shot black, sequms. fastening the belt with a large clasp. I wear it -with a olack crepon gown, which 1S made with green silk vest covered black chiffon, and I am told the effect is good. Ihe elastic contracts and expands with the movement of the body 90 the sequins require sewing on with strong silk, and the thread must not be drawn tightly. Favourite Ornament. A large black-jetted butterfly made of wittd laoe is a favourite ornament; it is attached to the wide folded waist-band, now so general. Soft silk is used for the same. the droop- ing corsage being drawn iip," ard a. little to show the spreading wings of the ornament. Travelling Toilet. The fashion for wearing blouses of glace silk, brocade, or other and like material with alien dress skirts shows no sign of change. An acquaintance of mine, who is going on the Continent, showed me the provision she has made for her journey. She expects to visit a great many fashionable resorts. My friend's toilet is replete with blouses of every imaginable description, well thought out and suited severally to all and every occasion. There were, I think, fifteen blouses in all; but of skirts to wear with them there were but four, and only two gowns made with bodices to match the skirts, these being travelling gowns—one rather a smart affair, a grey alpaca lined with blue silk. The revers were removable, there being a servicable vest and revers of grey alpaca, braided self colour; but there were white satin revers in addition, and a white satin vest to wear in change: and also another change provided in blue silk adjustable collar, cuffs, and vest. A tweed coat and skirt, made with utmost simplicity, provided the travelling gown pure and simple. The dressier skirts to be worn with the blouses were severally—Oiack satin, black crepon, and two coloured silk skirts. The alpaca skirt No. 2.481. A SMART PELISSE, 4 TO 6 AND 6 TO 8 YEAttS. The tasteful little model illustrated here is made of electric blue cashni re and trimmed with moire ribbon in a darker shude. It is lined throughout with sateen and arranged with a square yoke, t., which the pelisse is gathered and secured back and front, where it fastens down the centre with pcurl buttons. The three full capes fit emoothh' round the neck, and are each trimmed round the lower edge with three rows of ribbon, then lineal and secured to the neck under the narrow collar, which is edged with one row of ribbon and fastened witi. wide ribbon, blEl1K down the centre in two full loo;« and long ends. The foundation sleeves are with material at the whpre they are trimmed with three rovs of ribbon, and completed with a puff. which is gathered over the upper edge of facing and also into the armhole. 41 to 4j yards of 44in. cashmere, 1 J, yards of wide ribbon, and yards of narrow ribbon are required. The pattern is in 10 partil-half front and hack of yoke, half front and back of pelisse, half of each cape, collar, sleeve foundation, and puff. and the tweed would, of course, bE- united with appropriate blouses as occasion de- manded. Shoulder Covers. Large muslin collars have, to a great ex- tent, during this hot weather taken the place of capes, but sometimes one needs some kind of substantial covering for the shoulders. This is supplied, in many cases, by a very frilly short ca')e of velvet, silk, crepon. or some such material, but the cape does not meet in front; indeed, it extends only a little beyond the shoulders, and one wonders how it retains its position. This is accomplished by means of ribbon which passes under the arm and buttons in the centre of the shoulders under the cape, uniting there with the ribbon from the opposite side. The fronts of the cape are turned back In the form of revers, and show the. very smart lining, which JS often of the richest brocade, pale bhe and white, or pale pink and white brocade, or white satin, or some such handsome textile. Xo. 1.612. THE "MARIE" BATHING DRESS. 22, 25, AND 29 INCH WAIST. Tltis represents a oarticiilarly useful bathing dress, made of diagonal serge, tiunmed with vandvke braid, or it may be copied in flannel. The knickerbockers are trimmed at the knee with two rows of braid, and are gathered into a band at the waist. The blouse is fastened with hooks in the centre of the front. and falling almost to the knees, is trimmed at the lower edge with a row of van- dyke braid. It is trimmed witit two narrow frills round the shoulders, the upper oue being gathered with a heading at the top. A I)mM triwned with braid keeps it in position at, the waist. The short puff sleeves are gathered into the armhole. and, again, leaving a frill at the lower edge, which is fas- tened with a row of braid. 4 to 5 yards of 44-inch nirterial will be required, and 6 to 8 yards of braid. The pattern is in 5 parts—one leg of kniokerlwckers, half front and back of blouse. waintband, and sleeve. A full ruche of the silk is often put on just wader the edge of the oape to keep it oat ht the edge, where the fashionable godet effect is pronounced. Sleeves. Sleeves of material differing from that of the dress arc gaining back something of their z, old popularity, and the very costliest fabrics are used for the purpose. The stiffest bro- caded silks find most favour. It is necessary to have the best material when one calls attention to this particular part of the cor- sage. A black satin duchesse gown was very effective with sleeves of blue and silver bro- cade, and a blue crepon dress, fitted with sleeves of blue and pink shot glace silk, was also charming. Two pairs of sleeves to be fitted into bodice, turn and turn about. supply variety at a trifling cost. This is an age of such accommodating inventions. Possessed of two good dresses and some ingenuity in providing a few of the popular adjuncts to the same, and a woman may "ruffle it" with her more richly-clad sisters, and not feel at all outdone by their magnifi- cence but an efficient dressmaker, who will send out the gowns carefully arranged and supplied with such adaptations as I call attention to. must be employed. Her services, however, are by no means to be had for a song; but. if you attempt many variations, much will be required of her. Some women are extremely ingenious with their fingers, and can themselves supply 'what is needed. Sub- stituted revers are not very easy of adjust- ment, but almost any dressmaker could make a fashionable sleeve from a good pattern, and likewise cut J lie armhole of the corsage pro- perly, piping it invisibly to strengthen the edges of the orifice. The supplemental sleeves must be mounted on a thin calico bodice, to be worn beneath the bodice proper. Longing for the Cool Breezes. London is getting very hot and enervating, and our thoughts turn naturally towards the sea, and we long for the cool breezes which sweep across its mighty expanse. In my column last week I gave some attention to bathing dresses, which will be indispensible to intending bathers, and I have to-day to describe a very charming specimen of this class of gowns. It is made of navy-Vine serge, trimmed with white serge. The full knickerbockers and bodice are cut in one: the former are dra,wn into a wide band of white serge, which buttons tightly under the knees. The bodice is full; the gathers on the upper part are stitched into a band of white serge, and so shaped as to form a square, leaving the neck exposed. The sleeves are short; one full puff drawn into a wide band of white serge to correspond to the knickerbockers. The short skirt is of blue serge, which does not reach to the knee this is also edged with a band of white serge. The skirt is fastened on to a tight-fitting waist belt. over which is worn a serge sash. with rosette at the back. The band is shaped in front by means of three whalebones, placed vertically in the middle and on each side to keep the band firm. The bathing cap is of white serge, lined oilskin, and has a ruche of blue ribbon at the edge. I think the description I have given will please many readers. This bathing dress is exceptionally servicable and smart-looking, 'without seeming to be worn to attract undesirable notice. Women who swim dispense with the short skirt, and the pattern of a very tasteful dress. designed especially for swimmers, can be bought for one shilling and sixpence. The "Rose Jar." I have written rather exhaustively to-day on the subject of fashion, but before I close, this being the month of roses, and remem- bering how in past years I have always found recipes for "Rose Jar" acceptable. I add one more to the long list previously given, leather rose leaves day by day, and carefully spread to dry on sheets of paper, turning the petals every day until perfectly free from moisture, but not too dry. Lemon verbena leaves and sweet-scented geranium leaves are also to be added at will. but all must be previously dried, as also lavender, thyme, sweet marjoram, and meadow-sw eet. Sun- dried leaves are best. The spices used are supplied in the proportion of a teaspwmful each of ground cloves, cinnamon, allspice, and nutmeg. Stir these well together; add a drop or so of any of the fragrant oils sup- plied by the druggist—oil of cedar, attar of rose, a Tonquin bean or two, a single drop of musk. two teaspoonfuls of sachet powder, and a few drops of essence of white rose. Some bay salt added in proportion to the weight of rose leaves prevents mustiness. Stir the whole mass thoroughly and place it in a covered jar. When you wish to perfume a room remove the lid of the jar for a short time. and stir the mixture, when a most agreeable odour will be diffused.