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IHOME AND FASHION.I

Newyddion
Dyfynnu
Rhannu

I HOME AND FASHION. I A LETTER FOR MOTHERS AND J DAUGHTERS. n I BY MADAME ROSE. A SMART EVERYDAY COSTUME. EARLY all the regu- lar everyday costumes this autumn are made with tucked or pleated skirts. The tucking may be very unobtru- sive-one may even almost have to search for it; but in some form or other there it is. The fact of the matter is that tailors and dressmakers have discovered that the pleated short skirt is infinitely more becoming to the average woman than a short skirt of any other description—the pleats providing a width at the hem which could otherwise be obtained only by excessive goring, not a pretty thing in a short skirt. I remember one little costume I saw whilst spending a few days in France last week, which boasted one of these pleated skirts, and which greatly took my fancy. The material of which it was made was a fancy, rather dark-grey stuff, smooth in surface but patterned with an almost imperceptible check in a slightly darker shade. The bolero, which formed the upper part of the costume, was of the plainest possible shape, fitting beautifully over the shoulders, but cut fairly wide at the bottom in the present fashionable manner. The entire bolero was edged with a fancy rolled braid in black, white, and sapphire-blue. Round the neck was laid a flat band of black silk braid, edged on either side with the coloured braid, and turned back at the ends with dark sapphire velvet, which buttoned on to the coat with pretty black-and-white buttons. From this collar a flat stitched band of the material ran right round the bolero, its inner edge being arranged after the fashion of a laid-over seam. Plain coat sleeves terminated in cuffs of braid and velvet exactly matching the oollar. The skirt had a plain breadth in front, then three tucks on either side, released about twenty inches below the waist; a plain piece and three more tucks slightly shorter on each side; another plain breadth and six tucks at the back, only a few inches in length. The costume was completed by a high waistband of black silk, and a smart little grey toque adorned with wings in mingled grey, black, and blue shades. EVENING FABRICS. SO-CALLED HEAVY MATEBIALS.—An increasing richness of material is one of the most striking features of the present fashions for evening wear. Last season we were content with silk muslins, net, chiffon, and similar fabrics; but this year they have been to a large extent re- placed in our affections by rich, handsome silk, striped silk and velvet, striped silk and satin, striped moire, and similar beautiful weaves. At the first glance one would imagine that these new gowns would be ruinously expensive in com- parison with those of last year. In point of fact, however, they are little, if any, more costly, the beauty and richness of the materials employed making simplicity of style an absolute necessity, so that the extra outlay on material is quite balanced by the much smaller cost of making. Thin fabrics such as chiffon and net require much elaborate and expensive fashioning. Then, too, these exquisite silks require but little trim- ming, a small amount of lace on the bodice, a touch of velvet, or a little embroidery being all that is necessary when the fabric of the gown is in itself so decorative. A PRETTY EVENING COAT. A USEFUL POSSESSION.—One of the garments on which the woman of small means can most easily economise is the evening coat. Of course, for those of us who have a good many evening engagements it is a necessity, and though it may be simple it must be pretty and dainty. To buy such an affair in a shop is a most ruinous proceeding, for a very high price is asked for anything at all nice. A charming ooat can, how- ever, be made at home for a most modest sum, the making, with the aid of a good pattern, so eaaily obtainable aowadays, being a matter of small difficulty. If the shape be simple and the trimmings not over elaborated, tho veriest amateur will find herself able to turn out a very pretty and successful garment. As rogards mate- rial, I would suggest in white, ivory, or some delicate pale shade. If dark colours are chosen, the material must, of necessity, be richer in quality, or the coat will have too much the air of a street garment. A plain sack shape is, I think, the best for the purpose, and it is certainly the easiest to manage for the home dressmaker. I should make the coat slightly double-breasted, for the sake of the extra warmth, and fasten it on the left side with three or four large buttons, and buttonholes of eilk cord sewn on to the edge of the coat. The sleeves should be of the large coat shape, and finish in turn-back cuffs. If one happens to be the possessor of an old stole or muff which has f become too antiquated or shabby to wear it might be cut into the most delightful and cosy of cuffs and collar, and would add greatly to the effect of the coat/ Otherwise the cuffs and collar may be made of velvet, brocade, embroidery, or any other handsome material which happens to please the wearer. As a finish, two wide, heavy bands of thick silk braid, furnished with silk tas- sels at each end, might be laid over the shoul- ders and allowed to hang down back and front.

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IHOME AND FASHION.I