Symud i'r prif gynnwys
Cuddio Rhestr Erthyglau

11 erthygl ar y dudalen hon




HINTS UPCmr (lAEDENma We extract the following from the F,&eld :-We went to Battersea-park the other day, and were delighted with the way they water the sub-tropical garden there by means of a powerful hose, with a large rose at its end, which the workmen guide over the beds of thirsty plants, and give them a thick, dense, and heavy, though gentle shower. It is done in a few moments, and without any. tiresome nasty labour which occurs where the water has to be dragged by men. Where every pound of rater is carried at the' end of men's arms, we fear 'hat more good than harm is often done by the insufficient and superficial doses that are given. Every large garden liable to suffer from drought should have the water laid on in this way; then watering would be a pleasure instead of a laborious and dirty operation, as it is now in too many places. We know cf many gardens where the cost of men's labaur in, and for watering-pots, &c., is greater in the end than laying on the water would be. Much of the Eucce&ti of the sab-tropical of Battersea is owing to the thorough and efficient waterings given to the plants there. It is quite a pleasure to see how laxanjusly they apply it on hot evenings just now. At this season watering concerns all gardeners, from those whose subsoil is formed by the window-sill to those that contain acres of glass. It will soon be time to think of propagating the rarer bedding plants, new kinds, &2. A lictio prickly spinach may be sown for use late wke season, and there is no more suitable period for smoking the philosophic weed under the shade cf a (lensa weeping eltn or oihev tree cf pendulous habit, especially in the late after- noon, when the tree shadows are thrown long and far upon the grass, and the grass itself seems of golden green. Trap earwigs, murder snails, exterminate molea-gentlemen that sometimes do a lot of damago in a garden-and annihilate green fly. Continue to train in the wood of fruit trees, and remove super- fluous wood. There may ba a good deal of pegging i down in some cases, and in such, if pegs run short, bits of mat are quite R3 good as anything that can be had, and very much cheaper. Cat it into strips from a foot to eight inches ) jng or thereabouts, and then, by passing a bit over a ehoot and meeting the two ends, and giving them a good firm deep prick into the the earth with a wooden dibber or even a very strong finger, they will hold m well and firm as any, while they are free from objections that some iron and other pega ate liable to. Shallots should now bo taken up, the ground got ready for winter spinach. Strike roses to make plants on their own roots. Make a list cf Ladling likely to be most wanted for next year, and etudy the planting of the moat tastefully. planted gardens you have access to. Sow seeds of the herbaceous calceolaria for next spring bloom and in gentle heat. To GROW FINE PAKS^HY.—BOW it towards the end I of August. Let the Roil b3 comparatively poor but well drained; but if circumstances prevent such selection, choose the ground which comes nearest to it. It may be sown either in lines where it is to remain, or in seedbeds; but in any case it must be trans- planted, for parsley does much better, and lasts longer in that way than by the usual mode, Spring-sown parsley runs to seed mush Iwonerthan that sown in autumn. It will b3 fit to transplant in March, and ehoulci then be put in whatever positions you wish it to remain. The plants eo transplanted will be found excellent to pop into pots and boxes for the winter, as is the rale in gardens where a winter supply of parsley is indispensable in all weathers, or for any other pur- poses for whioh parsley ÍJ meà. Edgings of parsley near a dry walk or all.-sy desirable for the conve- nience of picking when the ground is sloppy in winter." STRIKING ROSES PSOSI CUTTINGS AND EYES.— Rosea on their own roots are very much-better and i more beautiful, either as regards health, profuseness I of good bloom or habit, than when budded on the ends of briers; but the preparation of good plants in this way is too tedious a process for nurserymen and others who wish to get up a stock quickly, and good examples of rose growing on their own roots are very much scarcer than they ought to be. Roses budded on Manettis or briers grow very much faster at first, and this and other reasons account for the fact that roses on their own roots are not to be had so readily in nurseries as standards and worked roses of all kinds. It takes a couple of years to make a nice plant of a rose from a cutting; but in the case of a bud which starts into growth in about the same time that it takes a cutting to form the callus to its base, and which is already provided with roots, much less than half the time suffices. As a rule, roses are very much better on their own roots than in any other way, but especially in loamy soils; and that dwarf well-furnished bushes, green and,fresh to the ground, are more beautiful than the gauky examples of worked roses to be seen in the majority of gardens need scarcely be said here. Anyone who grows a lot of good kinds of roaes on their own roots, and compares them with the same varieties on standards, will ever afterwards pay full attention to securing a good stock of the former. The simplest way of propagating them is from eyes, much in the way that a vine is increased. The leaf and the bud should be removed from the shoot juat as if pre- paring for budding, but the wood behind the eye which is removed in budding, must not be disturbed, and the leaf must be left intact, or we cannot strike the eyes out without it. They should then be dibbled rather thickly into pots of very sandy soil, with an inch of silver sand on the top, and covered with a bell glass. Any kind of bell glass would do, provided it fits properly, and the pots are best about six or eight inches in diameter. Pans will do if bell glasses that fit them are at hand. They must be placed on a mild or half-spent hotbed. The buds or eyes should be pretty large and full, and what is known as pushing, to distinguish them from the dormant and nearly invisible bud. The best will ba found on strong free-growing shoots. The soft and the very hard wood should be avoided. Cuttings of three joints or so may be inserted with advantage at the same time and under the same con- ditions. They should be rather deeply inserted, say more than half their length. They may also be struck from one joint-that is to say, by simply inserting the base of the leaf in the sand with about an inch of the stem attached to it. Whether from cuttings or eyes, they should be put in with a little dibber firmly and with the leaves erect. If when thickly inserted the leaves fall off from being too fat and large, the top ones may be out off with a scissors, and enough will remain to ensure the striking of eyes or cuttings. When this is all done the main point is to keep the leaves alive and fresh till roots are formed. This must be done by gentle sprinklings, and by judicious airing to prevent mouldiness. No heavy waterings must be given. They should be shaded during the day, and ventilated at night or in the evenings. If well-selected cuttings-from wood neither too old nor too young— are put into a cold frame at this time of the year, either in pots or stuck over the bed, and the light air kept quite close and shaded during the day and ventilated at night, or occasionally taken off altogether on a mild night, success is certain.




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