Papurau Newydd Cymru

Chwiliwch 15 miliwn o erthyglau papurau newydd Cymru

Cuddio Rhestr Erthyglau

9 erthygl ar y dudalen hon

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(iarkrtirtg. ,r" If any reader who is in difficulty with reference to his garden, will write direct to the ad- dress given beneath, his queries will be an. swered, free of charge, and by return of post. —EDITOR] Some correspondents omit to add their names, or merely end with initials. In these cases it is obviously impossible to reply.—E.K.T. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN IN MARCH. PARSNIPS. For this crop very deep sandy loams in open situtations are best. Parsnips do not require rich soil, though an autumn dressing of part ially decayed dung, which is free from straw, IS beneficial if large roots are desired. Sow as early as weather permits in shallow drills from 14 to 18 inches apart, one ounce of seed to a row of 100 feet; and cover with about an inch of fine soil. Commence systematic weeding as soon as the plants are visible in the rows; and when the seedlings are about two inches high thin them out to six inches apart. Finally, single out the roots from 10 to 12, or even 15 inches asunder and keep the hoe busy until the crops die down in autumn. PEAS. Sow for the main crop, using a quart of seed to a row of 60 feet in drills two inches deep, allowing sufficient space between the rows to admit of growing early potatoes, cauliflowers, spinach, celery, etc. Directly the seedlings are visible, dust them over lightly with Hme and soot mixed, as a protection from slugs; and tin them to about two inches apart when they are two or three inches high. It is well to support the plants with brushwood wlwn they are three or four inches high. As the 8eedlings appear under glass, air must be given whenever possible, to promote a sturdy growth and it will, of coarse, be necessary to water occasionally. Towards the end of March, or In early April plant them out with as little dis- turbance of the roots as possible. Earth up the stems of the main and late crops slightly; and support them with sticks in good time. Daring periods of drought, water must be liberally supplied either in shallow drills drawn about nine inches distant from the rows, or in the trough made by earthing up. Pinch out the top of robust-growing kinds when they are producing flowers freely. A mulching of leaves, short grass or half-decayed manure is of the greatest benefit during hot weather. POTATOES. It is now permissible to get in the main crops of potatoes, though, perhaps, it is safer to wait till-early April. Select tubers of moderate Bize, weighing two or three ounces each, or, failing these, divide. larger ones into pieces. When planting, rub off all the shoots excepting one or two short and stout ones. The rows Should be about 15 or 20 inches apart for very •early kinds, and about 24 to 30 for more robust growing varieties, while the sets must be placed in the trenches at from 8 to 10 inches apart for ,early, and from 14 to 16 for later crops. The sets can either be dibbled in some six or seven inches deep, or may be placed in trenches or furrows of like depth, the earth being closed in on them. If whole tubers are employed, it is well to cut a small piece off the bottom of each to expedite its decay after growth is fairly started. Hoe between the rows directly the shaws are visible, and cover them lightly With fine soil if frost appear imminent. Earth- ing up should be done when the tops are about six inches high, the ridge of soil drawn up to the stems of the plants, being four or five inches in height. The two fungi, peronospora infestans and fuBisporium solani, annually work much injury, the former being responsible for the dreaded potato disease which causes dis- coloured and decomposing tubers. Though the planting of sound seed in dry, warm beds in open sunny situations is beneficial, nothing is an effectual remedy save Bordeaux Mixture. This invaluable fungicide is prepared by slak- ing 4lbs. of quicklime (61bs. of air-slaked) in a vessel containing a small quantity of water, and by dissolving in another receptacle 61bs. of sulphate of copper in four or more gallons of water. When the former solution is quite cool, pour it into the copper mixture, and keep the fluids mixed by constant stirring, while adding enough water to make 40 gallons of prepara- tion. Stir well before applying in the form of the fine spray to foliage, preferably with knapsack sprayer, directly the first symptoms of the leaf spot appear. Further applications must be made at intervals of from 10 to 12 days. SEA-KALE. To raise plants from seeds, sow in drills 18 inches apart and cover the seeds with 2 inches of soil. Thin out the seedlings early to 10 inches asunder in the lines; keep the beds scrupulously free from weed; treat liberally, giving water, liquid manure, and an occasional light dressing of salt in summer and when the foliage has decayed in autumn, lift the roots carefully, and trim off side shoots. Lay in the main stems with the dormant crowns attached; and cover with litter to protect them from frosts until required for planting. To form a new bed with plants, put out the roots from mid-March to mid-April, in trenches 2 feet asunder, and tread the ground firmly down. Cut off any flower stems that may rise, and supply abundant water and liquid manure, with an occasional light dressing of salt, during the summer. Surface-rooting crops, such as lettuce spinach, etc., can be grown between the rows the first season. Hoe out any weeds. SORREL. In many households sorrel is justly valued as a wholesome and palatable addition to soups and such boiled vegetables as spinach. Sow any time in spring in drills eight inches apart in deep, moist soil, and thin out the seedlings to six inches asunder in the rows. No gather ing can be expected this summer. Hoeing and weeding are essential to keep the plantation clean. SPINACH. Deeply worked, good loams are best, but excellent crops can be secured on retentive soils and clays that have been well tilled. Moist, rich ground is essential for summer crops. Make liberal sowings now, using an ounce of seed to a bed of five square yards. Thin out the plants early to six, and finally to 12 inches apart in the rows, hoeing lightly between the rows to keep down weeds. It may be necessary to shade summer crops from the heat of the mid day. Take two or three of the largest leaves at a time from each plant directly they are big enough for use. At the first appearance of flower stems, cut the heads right on. When properly grown and cooked, spinach is one of the most wholesome and pleasing of vegetables. New Zealand spinach is an exceedingly valuable variety in hot sum- mers. The seed is sown in March or early April under glass, or on the open border in May, the seedlings being put out three feet apart in light sunny beds. STRAWBERRIES. Admirable crops of this fine fruit can be grown in any well-trenched, rich and sandy loam. A liberal layer of good manure ought to be placed between the spits when trenching and a light top dressing may be given in winter between the rows. Plant out fresh, wellrooted runners any time now 18 inches apart in rows two feet asunder, making the ground very firm. Mulch the surface, and supply abundant Water during dry whether. Remove the run- ners as fast as they appear. It is sometimes well to stir the surface soil very lightly to Prevent the rain from running off it. During July root the first runners in pots of rich soil, Plunged in the ground, the later once being Pegged down to the bed to root in the usual manner. When sufficiently rooted, sever the stems joining the young and parent plants, and shade those in pota for a few days. TOMATOES. Good crops may be secured from plants grown in the open from May onwards; and to provide these a sowing should be made now under glass in rather sandy soil. Maintain a temperature of 60 to 65 at night and 75 by day; and prick out the seedlings singly into small pots directly they have made two leaves. Keep the young plants short and stout by placing them on shelves near the glass; and mfrve them to larger pots as required. Fruit the plants in 8 in 10 inch pots, which are specially well drained, or in beds IS inches wide and 6 or 7 deep. Place the plants from IS inches to 2 feet apart; and train the mainstem of each up a stake or wire a foot from the glass. Systema- tically pinch out all side shoots; and it may occasionally be well to remove part of a very large leaf to admit more light to ripening fruit. Though the roots must on no account be allowed to want for water, the atmosphere should always be kept dry, as much air being admitted night and day as may be consistent with safety; and especial cire must be taken not to water too freely, especially on dull days. In damp weather fire-heat will be necessary, even in summer. Tomato flowers must always be hand pollinated or fertilized, as the fruit seems to be increased in size by a liberal application of pollen. The best plan is to collect the pollen in a spoon or ladle at mid- day, when the sun is bright and the house dry, and to touch the end of the stigma with the dust. Sturdy plants are hardened off, and planted out in May into deeply worked soil. With the exception that artificial fertilization is not needful, out-door treatment differs in no material respect from house culture. TURNIPS. In sowings of turnip seeds, a fine tilth must be regarded as absolutely essential. Lime, in some form, is necessary, and dressings of bore meal, basig slag, superphosphate, old morter and plaster, are most beneficial, in conjunc- tion with ordinary manure, in preparing the ground. Sow now for summer and early autumn use, on a very fine seed-bed, in shallow drills, from 12 to 15 inches apart, according to the size of the variety selected, one ounce of seed to four square yards, and cover with about half an inch of fine soil. The Turnip Fly, a voracious little beetle, occasionally destroys the plant almost as soon as it is visible. The cotyledon, or seed leaf stage, is that of special danger, and the surest preventive is to promote a regular and rapid growth by obtaining a fine tilth, and by sowing in drills in which a couple of inches of decayed manure, or of a mixture of guano, ashes and soil, is covered with a light layer of earth, to prevent the seed coming into actual contact with the fertilizer. As remedial measures, dressings of lime, soot, and ashes, are valuable, if applied in early morning, while the foliage is still wet with dew. The culture of turnips is the most simple. Thin with a hoe directly the rough leaves appear, and, finally, single out the seedlings by hand, until they are from four to nine inches apart, according to the vigour of the kind. If this process of singling be effected at two operations, the thinnings may be utilised in the kitchen. Give an occasional heavy watering during very dry weather; and keep the beds free from weeds. A very serious disease of these, and allied plants, is that known as Clubroot, Anbury, or Finger-and-toe. Infested roots become swollen and malformed; and eventu- ally loathsome decay sets in, and myriads of fungus spores are released, to in turn germin- ate, and attack such cruciferous plants as may be at hand. Constant rotation and clean cul tivation, involving the destruction of all weeds, which might serve as hosts for the fungus, will be found the best preventives. A very heavy dressing of lime often proves an effectual remedy in attacks, but no cabbages, turnips, or radishes, should be grown for several years on infested lind. WATER CRESS. Sow now in shady, moist trenches, which must be kept thoroughly damp by watering. MUSHROOM CULTURE. Cover the bed immediately after spawning with a six-inch layer of clean litter, and in a week's time remove this covering to see that the lumps of spawn are not blacker than when inserted. If the hyphae, or white threads of mycellium, appear to be spreading, cover the beds with two inches of good and moist turfy loam, pressing the surface down with a spade, and replacing the litter with as little delay as possible. On the appearance of the mushrooms which are due in six or seven weeks, the litter may be removed if the bed be in a warm and perfectly dark shed or cellar, sheets of brown paper being substituted. The bed must never be allowed to become dry, tepid water, prefer- ably at about 90 degrees, being given as required, the litter being removed before, and replaced instantly after watering. Cold draughts must be avoided, and the temperature should be kept as uniform as possible, while the bed must never be permitted to become sodden with moisture. The walls and floor of the mushroom home should frequently be syringed. E. KEMP TOOGOOD, F.R.H.S., pro Toogood and Sons, The Royal Seed Establishment, Southampton.

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