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GARDENING GOSSIP. I (From" The Gardener.") I HCMEA ELEGANS should not be forced now, but kept gently moving all the winter, and good results next season are certain. SMALL baskets are very pretty on the table for dessert fruits, and the handles may be lightly dressed with autumn foliage if desired. BEITRRE D'AMANLIS is a nice, juicy Pear of good quality, but unless it is gathered directly it is fit the heavy fruits socn drop and are spoilt. W HElm fruit trees through constant snipping back have become unfruitful and cankered, try the effect of letting them have their head for a year or two, simply thinning the growth a little. To ensure buying good forms, Odontoglossum crispnm should be purchased in flower. CUPRESSUSES and Thujas usually transplant more safely in a large state than Austrian and similarly habited Pines. A LITTLE Cocoanut fibre may be placed over bulbs in pots before covering them with ashes, and the labels must also be allowed a couple of days to dry, or they will be illegible by the time the ashes are re- moved. THE Jersey Navet Turnip is proving a very useful root this season. THE Monthly Roses are fine subjects for keeping up a long-continued display or for cutting. A FINE GREENHOUSE CLIMBER. Amongst the most beautiful of all greenhouse climbers may be mentioned the old Tacsonia Van Volxemii. It has crimson flowers of great beauty, depending by a long string, very much like a Passion Flower, and bright green foliage. It flowers almost continuously when it becomes established, and it is always elegant. It is well adapted (" Q. Read writes) for a medium-sized greenhouse or & large conservatory, and it is one of the best of climbers for draping the roof of heated corridors. The Tac- sonias are not suited for pot culture, but should be planted out in a border corresponding with the size of the house or the space to be covered. The plants must be well drained, and the compost may consist of good loam, with sufficient sand to keep it open. During the winter the growths should be cut back freely, and any streamers suspended from the roof may be shortened to within one or two eyes of their base. Tacsonias should be freely syringed during the summer season, ample supplies of water must be given, and the border top-dressed with a little fresh soil in the spring. GREENHOUSE ORCHIDS. The greenhouse as usually understood is, perhaps, one of the worst possible places in which to grow Orchids, yet representatives of some trade growers persist in the silly notion that all cool house Orchids can be so grown. This or that species will grow well in an ordinary greenhouse, is a formula they are never tired of repeating, and inexperienced growers who buy the plants take them home only to see them eke out a miserable existence for a time, then get covered with insects, and finally die. I will ask readers (H. R. Richards remarks) just to take a common-sense view of the thing for themselves, and then form their own opinion. Say the plant is an Odontoglosilum of the crispum or Pescatorei section. These plants grow naturally in dense forests, where the atmosphere is almost always laden with moisture, and at a great altitude. Can it be expected that such a plant will thrive in a sunny house with a harsh, dry atmosphere, in company with Tomatoes and other crops that require totally different conditions ? To the amateur who shades his greenhouse and keeps it moist enough to grow Ferns and similar plants, I may say by all means grow a few cool Orchids. They will be a source of great pleasure and interest; but do not be led into spending money upon plants thac you have not convenience for, no matter what the traveller may say. CHRISTMAS ROSES IN POTS. Now is the best time (E. J. Castle says) to lift Christmas Roses, with a view to have a display of pure white blossoms during the dullest months of the year. Nobody possessing a few plants need be in the least afraid of trying their hands at forcing, for no plant yields more willingly to gentle pressure, and any place, even a sunny window in a dwelling-house, will supply its needs. The object at this time of year, when house room is precious, is to economise space as much as pos- sible, therefore do not over-pot, but carefully squeeze the roots into the smallest receptacle that will take them, and carefully fill up the interstices with soil. Lard or butter tubs, or small beer barrels sawn in half, make excellent receptacles for forcing the Christmas Rose, and it is really astonishing to see the number of blossoms a plant in such a contrivance will produce. As the flowers grown indoors are of the purest white, with good stalks and a capacity for retaining their beauty for three weeks when cut and placed in water, it does not require much argument to prove what a valuable addition they make to the cut flower repertoire. Helleborus niger angustifolius is the best to grow for indoor work, but all the numerous forms are useful; and providing they are liberally supplied with water, kept free from green fly, and not too quickly forced at first, success is practically as- sured. A succession to those grown in pots can be easily obtained by placing a frame or a few handlights over plants growing in the borders, as this will bring them on a little earlier, aud prevent the winter rains splashing mud over their white blossoms. An east border provides the best position for outdoor culture, and they should have a fairly stiff soil, with a good supply of water and a liberal mulching of manure during summer. Plants forced one year should be given a rest the following winter, while others take their places indoors. One winter's forcing, one winter's resting, should always be the rule, and then splendid results may be obtained. The Christmas Rose is a member of the Buttercup family (Ranunculaceae), and has two relatives which grow in our woodlands and hedgerows, and put forth their greenish yellow blossoms in early spring. These are H. viridis, the Green Hellebore, and H. fcetidus, .the Stinking Hellebore, both of which may be easily distinguished from other spring flowers by their large, leathery leaves. TO HIDE THE LEAFLESS STEMS OF WINDOW PLANTS. Araliaa and Indiarubber plants that have lost their lower leaves, and show a long, bare stem, can be made quite attractive by the aid of a few creeping plants. A root of Ivy planted near the stem, or a cutting or two of both green and coloured Tradescantia inserted close to the centre of the pot, will soon form a neat covering if trained to grow around the stem. Recently I saw an Aralia in a window, the stem of which was most effectively hidden by a rather strong- growing root of small-leaved Irish Ivy. It had been allowed to grow right up to where the leaves re- mained on the stem, and then the small branches had been permitted to hang down on each side in quite a natural manner. The whole was exceedingly pretty and attractive in appearance, the different shades of green of the Aralia and the Ivy contrasting very well. If around the sides of the pot one or two small Pteris Ferns can be planted, they will, in addition to hiding the soil in the pot, give to the whole a finished appearance. By the above means tall plants can be made to look well until spring, when the talles can be stem-rooted. The plants must not ba allowed to suffer for want of water, and they must be protected from frost. THE GOLDEN ROD. I Clumps of this old-fashioned plant are frequently seen in cottage gardens, where, at this time of the year, its wealth of golden blossoms is greatly appre- ciated. Though not to be recommended for beds or borders containing choice plants, yet an odd bit of ground or waste corner, where nothing flourishes, may well be planted with it.. Once planted it will look after itself, and yield quantities of its golden blossoms, which may be usefully employed where ei- tensive schemes ai decoration are carried out.





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