Weekly Mail

FEMININE FOIBLES, MgCffiS andFASEKMS ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. unn^LC^er^ Vv'eather has been most asjaovij-^SSar^y assiduous in pro vine- the bu^ on1?0 England has no climate 0f samples of -weather." In the face C0^ an<^ the rain now prevailing, chiff0?a^ wri't,9 with any enthusiasm of I 1 Print 111 ^*le fabape of chiffon proper, or of trig. -Muslins, delicate silks, and gauze- i<}ea hats ? Alpaca- is really the one iuWni P03se33es m&> for it is a kind of and ii ary between thin summery tissues heavier materials that befit the S°tte Tw^en summer is over and a, 8 I have lately taken, shelter in <Wt}f gown which I wore through the | Warjjj ■ winter, and find it none too If tionai]121 ^y- One needs something' excep- I p8ne, warm as a protection from the seaso^f"1" C0^ an<* ^amP this most un- ?lieiirr,a^e Avea^ier- Persons subject to forms 111 *n one or other of its protean joints art- Wr^hing with torture aching acjjes' soiatxca, lumbago, neuralgia, tooth- self r a torments that Dante him- have drawn up as a change from he ha ""0rms physical anguish wherewith log,, s *nade us acquainted. In this cata- 1 are 6 0i sv^s colds, though last on the list, J PrevaW an-i ai'% V!F I ^'aJr8 In a 1 Ye^J ]°n is not an enviable one. recall °F. my owa comfort, I insist on the year SCt10n the situation this time last loan.' ^hen, like the ancient mariner, we W f'inexPressibly for the rain that did So • f" when the heat was suffocating and Hi?V,fT*Se as a^mos^ unbearable, when heca ou&ht little or no relief, and water inev"?6*50 scarce that a water famine seemed thrs + an<^ cholera raging in other lands *ata us a-"so owing to the scarcity of ]r)ac^r,llee(ied to carry off impurities. I look li re. *0 that time, I say, and so am able to X thin31 myself to the existing state of }0on5'S as regards weather. Cholera is again ln8' in the distance, and needful precau- tjjg,8 are necessary to secure immunity from Vh awful scourge, the horrors of which— }eg 51 ^he disease is rampant—are hardly Pla than were those of the great uH+.?u,e *n 1664—something to be spoken of h bated breath. An Interesting Book. *rH+ a^ention has been called to a book 0f j., en hy Miss Arabella Kenealy—daughter '> ^jg ,e 011ce famous Dr. Kenealy. This lady ? fflSS JF"4. courage and devotion to i siatc.8,11 when, two years ago, she and her peoT)] We„a^ out to tend the cholera-striokea. | lives ° Hamburg, literally taking thoir their hands. Surviving the dangers rieac "Orrors of that terrible expe- i ino" Kenealy is now distinguish- < as an author. Her book, c°ntr 9, Harley-street," is in sharp ^.° ^-ho doctrines preached by Mrs. he}0 "aird. Dr. Kenealy (Miss Kenealy cin6\ t° the ranks of the professors of medi- is a ls herself a student, and because she a gj.a U(^ei}t of physiology declares that it is 6 In^3^a^e' even a crime against the i day Jeneration, for women who hope one | lafeon mothers to spend in study or u16 Physical and nervous vitality > Uatm, ,should be stored up as a kind of S «lbanki^ account to credit of caj^j^spective or possible children. I here quote further Dr. Kenealy's Tii*. ^HE CONSTANCY TOQITS. Si? Iac» c°™ioination of four TJOWS of Cliaa- 1 greeii k ,lack roses with green leaves. Ti.3 largo ai'e arranged to form an aigrette, ole brooches by way of fasteniagr. k-. an(^. °pini°ns on one of the most i can an1 Social questions of our time. -^Qadera • sa^ ^u^y concur in them. f ^hey ar mterested in such questions—and vital importance to all c ^heu t~. ^nore especially in these days fildered th education of women is con- m°st important matter of train- s^r8et." read Dr. Janet, 9, Harley- r^iculon^^me alway3 perilously near the tushe^ tinhT^j ^aow' a^'i there has just tha4- in- to my mind a nonsense topic '.ls hy no means mal-apropos to ^hyujg discussed. This nonsense t<WhrUnsas follows s~ I'm »!iwyo,u 9°ing, my pretty maid P it t° lecture, sir," she said lie tntoi 18 he aubjeot, mv pretty maid ? Tilell otalbextinction of man," she said; "4d maid !°^'r 11 marry y°u> my p^tty g d°n't marry, good sir," marry, however, and senior J&Utler Sfl,v a^ other "blues" of the heater "li may> Dr. Kenealy asserts, >5 Physipa^1 T ^e.?acy of mental deficiency M deformity to their luckless off-, lieally Explanation. Waee is, I tardily remember, not a I c^ce. -]v?me f°r the discussion of physical r'tis-ej J-y pen has run away with me 7?y tea<|eTS, niay escape the correction of hey rerfte an<^ °f njy editor also, if he and ?' there is a recognised paucity Ve Hot p season of the year, and as I ^lafit goosT* acr°ss a mammoth egg, nor a evea erry» nor any other hisus naturw, ?hen0lll Seen that insignificant natural I beU- •'he sea serpent, whose season it )?hYsics f <eve, ,I have had to fall back upon es fell a topic. I Alpaca Gowns. ^SUa% e.,7SlCS to alpaca, 'gowns' .is an un- hi decadence. Easy as any directiwu generally is just [. now, an alpaca dress is really a valuable addition to any woman's wardrobe. The j new makes are so glossy that they have all the effect of silk, with none of the tendency to crease and spoil with rain, the undesirable characteristics of silken robes. Then, alpaca is most moderate in price, another of its i many virtues worthy to be recorded. A fawn alpaca, with the skirt well cut and well I hung, and a bodice fashionably or simply made, according to taste or requirement, can ,I be handsomely trimmed with lace, velvet, moire, or ribbon, severally and according to the selected style. A fawn-colour alpaca gown very simply made had a folded collar, band of green velvet, with a large paste buckle in front, and a velvet rosette at the back of the neck. A folded band of green velvet outlines the waist, and is fastened behind with a rosette. A rather narrow cross-way band of velvet edge the skirt, which, by the way, is cut on the cross, and is very full round the bottom. A shot green silk petticoat was visible when the wearer lifted her skirt, and a small green velvet bonnet trimmed with upright roses of velvet, fastened "in position by two paste buckles, completed a charming yei; very simple costume. Another alpaca gown was trimmed with the new geranium-colour velvet, and a pink and white shot alpaca was enriched by a dull, dark shade of crimson that threw the lighter colour of the alpaca into high relief by force of contrast. Royal Dross. The dress of Royal personages is always an attractive topic, and it may interest some of my correspondents to learn that the Princess of Wales on the occasion of the Boyal christening wore a silver grey silk, with one of the very large fashionable lace collars, also a bonnet almost entirely made of pale mauve flowers. The Princesses Victoria and Maud of Wales were in cream colour, and wore bonnets to match in Tuscan coloured straw, made in the form of a bow, held down by a flower, the same flowers trimming the back of the bonnet. The Duchess of York was in pale blue and white. The Duchess of Teck was dressed in deep blue and copper colour. Princess Christian wore a fawn dress, relieved with blue. Princess Victoria of Schleswig-Kolstein was dressed in pink. The Marchioness of Lome's costume was grey shot with pink. Princess Alix of Hesse wore pink in her bonnet, and her dress was cream-coloured. The Duchess. of Fife's gown was fawn-coloured. My readers will see that fawn is really a very fashionable colour, and a relief of pink is much to be desired. The Duchess of Fife is always quietly, but elegantly, dressed. I saw her at the opera lately gowned in pale blue brocade, with diamonds in her hair. Another lady wore a white satin gown, with blue chiffon bodice, pink geraniums looping up the sleeve on the left shoulder. Another striking composite toilette was a heliotrope skirt worn with a white chiffon corsage and braces of heliotrope velvet. The Latest in Bonnets. I believe I remarked some while back that we must prepare for radical changes in the shape of our bonnets. The article known lately as a bonnet is a most inadequate head-I dress. Head covering it never pretended to be. A youthful face and a bushy fringe of hair were necessary to make it becoming. I hair were necessary to make it becoming. I have noticed that matrons have worn hats and their daughters bonnets now, pro- bably, there will be a reversal of this order. The nodding aigrette and flowers set up on long,slender stems,.rising from the back of the bonnet, are to be laid low. Width in front is correct lace wings and bows of ribbon are requisitioned to produce this effect; so, too, wreaths of flowers set round the edge of the bonnet. Strings may be dispensed with, but when used they U are short and made of velvet cut crosswise, and fasten under the chin in a neat permanent bow, the pointed ends of which are caught back on either side by fancy-headed pins. Strings, to most women, are a very becoming addition to bonnets. Deep, yellow straw, trimmed with green velvet and red geraniums, is a favourite combination with milliners. The boat-shaped Panama hats, trimmed with handsome bows of black surah, are reduced in price to 3s. lid. Prior to the sales they were sold at 8s. each. There are hundreds of them in the shops; but, then, one need not despise them because common, for sailor hats are a hundred times more common, or, to use a better word, more universal," than the newer boat-shape hat. Yet the most exclusive and the vulgar alike wear sailor hats. The popularity of some articles of dress is so great and so lasting that we cease to judge them by a standard that rules in relation to modes less universally adopted. Velvet bonnets are sure to be worn by everyone during the ensuing autumn and winter. Made in velvet the colour of the dress, or in lighter or darker shade, with a j few flov, gj's or a little old lace, and a paste buckle introduced here and there, and we have no more fashionable head-dress at this time. I notice that some ladies carry smart little b',gs of velvet, matching the bonnet in colour. These b;1,gs are slung- upon the arm by means of lone ribbon string's tied in a smart bow <i'uvt the wrist. .Sa.hrie Dresses. That ^chnrming li tie serial Woman" is Offering patterns of tisteful bathing dresses cut to special me^ouremeiit for Is. 6d. each. Var'oas styles are procurable. I particu- larly admired that made with very full knickerbockers and bodice cut in one. The short skirt is put on after, and a sash of serge fastens with a rosette at the back. This conceals the dividing line at the waist; the sash is boned to keep it trim and in place. It is very much the fashion to draw on thin woollen hose when bathing, and most bathers where the coast is shingly wear bathing shoes. Nut brown serge and blue serge are the most useful materials for bathing dresses, and may be rendered as ornate as is consistent by trim- •, BED-SCRESN. This is si pretty item ot oeilroom decoration, which our Fresco.1friends ca1! a .ja,-Ment<wre. It is simply a piece of embroidery, or crewel-work, nailed to the wall beside' a bed and finished with cords and tassels. It may, however, be fixed to a stand, something like a long towel-horse, made at home, and then long towel-horse, made at home, and then long towel-horse, made at home, and then serves to really screen a, beu from draughts. ming with braid in a contrasting colour. Mr. John Barker, of Kensington, keeps bathing caps in various shapes, so a becoming j one should be selected, and an assortment will, I have no doubt, be sent on approval if desired. I prefer tha Olivia," or the French cap. In every case the cap must be firmly secured by means of elastic or by the aid of hairpins, otherwise it will almost certainly expose the hair to the wetting which proves so inimical to its health. The curlers I mentioned some weeks back are most useful to bathers. There is a frizzy curl at each end of the curler proper, and using them enables one to make a present- able coiffure on leaving' the bathing machine should one's own hair get wet. The curlers can be removed when our fringe has re- covered its pristine condition. Gloves. Gloves are always an important item of expenditure, and visitors to the sea coast will find silk gloves invaluable; they are so easily drawn on and off, and do not spoil when the hands get hot, as kid gloves will. White doe-skin gloves are much worn, and are easily cleaned when soiled with pipe-clay. Mr. F. Penbarthy has doe-skin and castor gloves of excellent quality-at 2 s. the pair. Always well powder the hands before putting on thin kid g-loves in hot weather. It is surprising how this saves their appearance, HOME-MADE TABLE. A handy little table for the room, the veranda, or the garden may be made thus of ordinary |in. pine the toi> being 24in. across. The shelf measures 20in,; the legs are broomsticks 2?in. long, and the only finishing is sandpapering, sizing1, and enamelling, and nailing- on the lambrequin and fringe with brass- headed nails. Of course, the top can be covered with cloth or other material if desired. to say nothing of facilitating the drawing on and off, a troublesome business when the hand is hot. TO CORRESPONDENTS. M. C. B. -Volatile salts of ammonia. are frequently used by confectioners when making cakes, The quantity is a teaspoonful and a half to a pound of flour. The. powder should be dissolved in half a teacup of tepid milk, and then beaten with the eg'gs before they are added to the other ingredients. Everton Toffee. to the other ingredients. Everton Toffee. J. B."—Take lib. of sugar and 5oz. of I butter a,nd boil together fifteen minutes. Care must be taken that the toffee does nat burn. Ponrinto a shallow and place on the sur- face dried almonds split m half. r Marmalade Pudding. A Young Housekeeper." — Beat Jib. of butter to a cream, add ilb. of sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of marmalade finely chopped, three eggs, and two tablespoonfuls of brandy. Keep beating the mixture each ingredient is to be added separately. When all is well mixed, pour into a greased mould and steam for six hours. Serve with a sauce made with a table- spoonful of marmalade chopped and three tablespoonfuls of brandy. This is a very superior marmalade pudding. Fish Pickle. Many persons like the pickled remains of cold fish, but the flavour ef the iish depends a.lmost entirely on the pickle in which it has been steeped. The recipe I offer was given me by a first-rate housekeeper, and I can thoroughly recommend it:—" To a pint of vinegar add three pints of the liquor in which the fish y/as boiled, 01 a little salt, a few bay leaves, six blades of mace, loz. of whole black pepper, the same of allspice berries, and two or three pieces of root ginger; boil three-quarters of an hour, strain, and pour over the fish, which must be com- pletely immersed." It will be understood that less pickle will be sufficient if the quantity of fish is small. Novelty in Brooches. "Ruby.You may like a brooch made in the ferm of a note of interrogation. This is one of the newest shapes in the jeweller'a list. A Going Away Gown. "Eva."—One of the moat appropriate going' away gowns for a bride whose honeymoon will be spent at Brighton will be a cream serge with pale yellow silk shirt and a Tuscan hat triwuned with crimson satin a.nd dark red and ^fellow roses. Collar Bands. Esther Johnsox.—Make che attachable neck band of velvet or silk, and fa-sten at the back under a rosette. There are corresponding rosettes in front on either side. Some of the newer collar-bands are fashioned under a bow made with wide loops standing out right and left on either side. Occasionally, as a variation of this style, we see a fancy kilted lace, starting as it were from the ends of the curved paste buckle, which is generally a feature of the collar band. To your other question, "Yes"; the plain, seamless back to the bodice is very general, and the back of the waist is invariably round. Rag Bag Portiere. Effie L."—As you wish to make a ra.g bag portiere write to Mrs. Dinely Tongue, and send Is. and postage for the portiere sketch. It will give yeu a very good idea of the most correct way of fashioning the article.